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Drainage and ditch work

Water against a foundation, a drive that washes out, a ditch that stopped carrying. Fixing it starts with deciding where the water is allowed to go.

What this actually involves

Drainage and ditch work, in plain terms

Nearly every job on this site arrives as a water problem wearing a different name. Somebody calls about a driveway, a soft lawn, a wet basement wall or a shed sitting in a puddle, and underneath all four is the same question: where does the water that lands on this property currently go, and where should it go instead.

Answering it needs somebody standing on the ground, because it depends on things no photograph shows — how the land falls, what the soil is, where the neighbouring ground drains, and whether the ditch or road culvert downhill can actually take what you send it. Moving a problem onto somebody else’s property is not solving it.

A closer view along a rock drainage run, showing the rip-rap and the graded slope above it

What is included

The list

  • Surface regrading and positive fall
  • Swales and rock-lined runs
  • Ditch cleaning and reshaping
  • French drains and downspout runs
  • Culverts and driveway crossings
  • Trench digging

When people call about this

Reasons this ends up on the list

  • Water standing in the same spot for days after rain
  • A damp or wet wall on the uphill side of the house
  • A driveway that rills or washes every storm
  • A ditch that has silted up and no longer carries
  • Soil or gravel washing onto a patio, drive or road
  • A downspout discharging straight against the foundation

How it goes

From the walk-through to the finished ground

STEP 01

Follow the water

Where it starts, where it pools, and where it is legitimately allowed to end up. That walk is the estimate, and it is free.

STEP 02

Set the fall

The surface is cut and filled to a deliberate slope. Most drainage problems are a grading problem first and a pipe problem second, if at all.

STEP 03

Build the route

A swale, a rock-lined run, a French drain, a reshaped ditch or a culvert under the drive — whichever the ground actually calls for.

STEP 04

Stabilise the outfall

The end of a run matters as much as the start. Left raw, it undercuts itself and takes the new work with it.

Questions

Drainage and Ditch Work: common questions

Is this a drainage problem or a foundation problem?
Often it is both, and the order matters. Water sitting against a wall is a drainage problem; what it has already done to the wall is a foundation one. We can fix the first. If the walk-through says you also need a foundation contractor, you will get told that rather than sold a trench.
Do I need a French drain?
Less often than people expect. A French drain is the answer when water is already in the ground and has to be intercepted. When it is running across the surface — which is most of the time — regrading to a proper fall is cheaper, lasts longer and has nothing to clog.
Where is the water actually allowed to go?
That is the part that decides the job. A road ditch, a natural low point, or a culvert may all be options, and some of them are not yours to use. It gets worked out on site rather than assumed, because routing water onto a neighbour is a problem you have bought, not solved.
Can you clean out an existing ditch?
Yes — ditch cleaning and reshaping is routine work here, and it is often all that is needed. A ditch that has silted up has usually lost its fall as well as its depth, so it gets re-cut to a grade rather than just scooped out.

Drainage and Ditch Work in Jefferson or St. Louis County?

Tell us the address and what the ground is doing. Bryer comes out, walks it with you and gives you a number — free, and with nothing attached to it. Repeat customers get 10% off.